Hyundai Elantra Brake Booster

Not automatically. The Elantra sold in South Africa as J2 Avante, XD, HD, MD and AD, and early SA cars wear the Avante name and later ones the Elantra badge for what is effectively the same lineage — the generation code, not the badge, is what a parts desk works from. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.

Usually, yes. The Elantra a platform relative of the Kia Cerato through several generations, which gives us a second catalogue to search when Hyundai-listed stock runs out. We will tell you what we are quoting rather than leaving you to guess.

A rock-hard pedal is the headline symptom — you're pushing against the master cylinder alone. Expect hissing under the dash, a rough idle when braking and stopping distances that spike. On CRDi diesels a failed vacuum pump will mimic these symptoms exactly.

Costs vary by model and engine — a petrol i20 uses a simpler vacuum booster, while CRDi diesels often need the vacuum pump replaced alongside. Labour runs three to four hours because the master cylinder has to come off. Send us your VIN for a free quote.

We don't recommend it. The brakes still work mechanically, but stopping distance can double — dangerous in SA traffic. If you must move the car, do it at low speed, short distance, with extra following room. Rather get it towed or fixed first.

Usually a loss of vacuum — either a split booster diaphragm, a perished vacuum hose, a faulty one-way valve, or (on CRDi diesels) a failed vacuum pump. Start by checking the hose from the booster to the manifold — it's cheap and often the culprit.

We source new and used boosters nationally through our supplier network, matched to your exact VIN. I20, Tucson, Accent and Creta units are the common-stock items — older Getz/Accent boosters are strip-yard only. Send your chassis number and we'll quote same-day.