Hyundai Getz Crankshafts

Not automatically. The Getz sold in South Africa as TB (a single generation, pre- and post-facelift), and the facelift changed lighting and front-end trim, so a body or lamp part that fits an early TB may not fit a late one even though the mechanical parts interchange freely. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.

SA-market cars ran Alpha 1.3/1.4, Alpha II 1.6. The code stamped on the block is what we work from — the badge on the boot is not reliable on its own.

This is worth settling first, because the two jobs are not remotely comparable. The sensor is a bolt-on part that ages and corrodes; SA retail runs roughly R65 to R550 through our supplier network. The crankshaft itself is an engine-out rebuild. People search for one and need the other more often than you would think.

The engine cranks but will not start when hot, then fires up again once it has cooled — that hot-stall-then-restart pattern is close to diagnostic on its own. Add random stalling, intermittent misfires and codes P0335 or P0336. On Getz and i20 1.4 CRDi cars, corrosion at the sensor plug is a common cause.

Not with any confidence — the ECU needs crank position to fire the injectors and ignition, so the engine can cut at any moment. That is a stranding rather than a limp home. Get it done before it picks its own time and place.

SA retail runs roughly R65 to R550 depending on model and brand, confirmed across our supplier network, and labour is usually under an hour. Send your VIN rather than the model name — sensor fitment follows the engine family, and a wrong-part return is the most common avoidable delay we see.

Very little, directly. The crank is one of the toughest components in the engine, so damage to it is nearly always downstream of something else — oil starvation, overheating, or a rod bearing that let go first. If the crank is genuinely damaged, the engine has usually already made the decision for you.