Hyundai H1 Spark Plugs

Not automatically. The H1 sold in South Africa as the original Starex, then the TQ iLoad, iMax and Grand Starex, and panel van, bus and people-mover bodies on the same TQ base take different rear-end, glass and trim parts, so tell us the body style, not just the model. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.

SA-market cars ran 2.4 petrol on selected Grand Starex derivatives, D4CB 2.5 CRDi, 2.5 TD on the earlier Starex. The code stamped on the block is what we work from — the badge on the boot is not reliable on its own.

It follows the engine, not the model. A 1.2 Kappa and an older 1.4 MPi in what looks like the same car take different plugs, and the T-GDi engines are different again. Check the handbook or a parts catalogue against your engine code before ordering — the wrong heat range causes exactly the misfire and fouling you were trying to fix.

Standard copper plugs want changing roughly every 30,000km. The iridium and platinum plugs fitted to newer i20, Accent and Creta models run 60,000 to 90,000km. Your handbook has the interval for your engine; we would inspect at every major service regardless, because plugs read the engine's health better than most things you can look at for free.

Rough idle, hesitation when you accelerate, economy sliding, a check engine light and a misfire code on one cylinder. Pull one and the evidence is right there — worn electrodes, black soot or oil deposits. Fresh plugs restore smooth running immediately, which is what makes this such a satisfying job.

NGK plugs for Hyundai range roughly R19 to R399 each depending on grade, and you are almost always buying a set of four. Request a free quote with your engine code and we will include fitting — coil-on-plug designs add labour, so the parts price on its own understates the job.

They are the most common cause, so start there rather than at the coils or injectors. What the old plug looks like is worth reading before you buy anything: oil fouling points at valve stem seals or piston rings, dry black soot points at a rich mixture or a faulty sensor. In both cases new plugs alone would only postpone the problem.