Hyundai H1 Bushings
Whether your H1 is an early or late build, we match the bushings to your derivative rather than to the badge. Find quality Hyundai H1 breaker yard at our facility.
What Are Hyundai H1 Bushings?
Bushes are the rubber or polyurethane isolators sitting between the suspension arms and the shell — control-arm, anti-roll-bar, subframe and engine-mount bushes all count. Where Hyundai bush sourcing gets interesting is that the front geometry changed within model names rather than between them: the LM and TL Tucson do not share arms, and the Getz TB, Accent LC and Accent RB are three different front ends despite living in the same showroom for years. Give us the generation code and the bush becomes a five-minute lookup instead of a guess.
Signs You Need New Bushings
What a parts desk needs to know about your H1
What changes across the range
The H1 reached South Africa as the original Starex, then the TQ iLoad, iMax and Grand Starex, and that alone changes what fits.
Panel van, bus and people-mover bodies on the same TQ base take different rear-end, glass and trim parts, so tell us the body style, not just the model.
Worth knowing: the H1no Kia equivalent — the H1 is its own commercial platform.
What we check on bushings
- •The generation code, because H1 parts lists split on it
- •The engine family — this H1 was sold with 2.4 petrol on selected Grand Starex derivatives, D4CB 2.5 CRDi and 2.5 TD on the earlier Starex
- •The generation code and whether the car is front- or all-wheel drive
- •Whether the car is pre- or post-facelift within its generation
In South Africa the H1 is mostly shuttle, tour and staff-transport work, which means very high annual mileage and a strong bias towards diesel injection, turbo and clutch components. That is the wear pattern we stock and source against.
Before You Order H1 Bushings
Will bushings from another H1 fit mine?
Not automatically. The H1 sold in South Africa as the original Starex, then the TQ iLoad, iMax and Grand Starex, and panel van, bus and people-mover bodies on the same TQ base take different rear-end, glass and trim parts, so tell us the body style, not just the model. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.
How do you check bushings actually fits a H1?
We work backwards from the VIN: generation first, then engine family, then whether the car is pre- or post-facelift within that generation. On the H1 specifically, panel van, bus and people-mover bodies on the same TQ base take different rear-end, glass and trim parts, so tell us the body style, not just the model.
What are the symptoms of worn Hyundai bushings?
Clunks over bumps, wandering steering, uneven tyre wear and a clonk when you engage gear are the classics. Hyundai Forums documents the issue across Getz, i20, Accent, Sonata, Tucson and Creta — the front lower control-arm rear bush is the headline failure point.
How much does it cost to replace bushings on a Hyundai?
Parts span a wide range — budget rubber from around R150 up to polyurethane kits at R2,600 at SA pricing. Labour depends on location; subframe bushings are an hour each, engine mounts two to three. Send your VIN for a parts quote.
How long do Hyundai suspension bushings last?
Front control-arm rubber bushes typically last 80,000 to 140,000 km in SA conditions. Rear trailing-arm bushes last longer. Potholes and heavy loads shorten life dramatically; if you've hit a big pothole, check the bushes regardless of mileage.
Why does my Hyundai make a clunking noise over bumps?
Worn control-arm or anti-roll-bar bushes are the top suspects, especially on Getz, i20, Accent and Creta. Broken drop links and top-mount bearings mimic the symptom. We start with a hoist check of all front bushings — it's a ten-minute diagnosis.
Should I replace bushings with rubber or polyurethane?
OEM rubber is quieter and cheaper — R150-ish at SA retail. Polyurethane is stiffer, lasts longer and transmits more road noise — an i20 N owner might prefer it, a daily Tucson driver will not. For typical SA daily use we recommend OEM-spec rubber.
Let us confirm the bushings before you buy
Photos of the old part and your VIN are usually all we need. We confirm the bushings against your H1 before quoting, not after.