Hyundai H100 Temperature Sensors

Not automatically. The H100 sold in South Africa as Porter, Porter II and the H100 bakkie, and dropside, tipper and canopy conversions mean the load body is frequently not standard, so load-bed and rear-body parts have to be matched to the conversion rather than to the model. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.

The VIN is the single most useful thing — a photo of the plate is fine. Failing that, the generation code and the engine code off the block. The H100 ran as Porter, Porter II and the H100 bakkie, so the generation is what narrows the search.

Temperature gauge jumping or stuck low, check engine light, poor fuel economy and a cooling fan that won't activate. Hard cold starts with the engine running too rich are another tell — the ECU thinks it's always warming up and keeps dumping fuel.

A Hyundai coolant temp sensor (covering i10 to H1 fitment) costs around R65.93. A workshop charges maybe an hour's labour to fit. Request a free quote through our form for your specific engine — 1.4, 1.6 T-GDi and 1.6 CRDi use different sensors.

Yes — if the sensor is stuck reading cold, the ECU never triggers the cooling fan and the engine cooks in traffic. We see this across the i20, Accent and Creta range. Replace with a revised OEM part, not a cheap generic, or the fault returns within months.

Either genuine overheating or a failing sensor giving false readings. Stop and check coolant level first — low coolant confirms a leak or failed thermostat. A solid cold dash on restart with no actual heat signs points at the sensor.

Yes. If the sensor reports cold when the engine is hot, the ECU keeps the mixture enriched as if still warming up. You'll see fuel consumption climb 10 to 20 percent, especially on shorter commuter trips. Replacement restores economy immediately.