Hyundai i10 Right Sun Visor

Not automatically. The i10 sold in South Africa as PA, then the Grand i10 BA, then AI3, and the original PA i10 and the later Grand i10 are separate platforms with separate parts catalogues — "i10" on its own is not enough to order from. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.

The VIN is the single most useful thing — a photo of the plate is fine. Failing that, the generation code and the engine code off the block. The i10 ran as PA, then the Grand i10 BA, then AI3, so the generation is what narrows the search.

The driver's. That matters more than it sounds, because a sagging driver's visor drops directly into your sightline rather than being a cosmetic annoyance. It also usually differs from the left one in whether it carries a vanity mirror or a ticket clip.

The pivot has lost its friction grip — the clip wears long before anything visibly breaks. Depending on how far gone it is we replace the clip or the whole visor, and sometimes nipping up the hex bolt in the headliner mount buys another year or two.

Sun visors run from around R250 for common Hyundai models through our supplier network, and used ones from stripped cars come in below that. Give us your model, year and interior colour when you ask — Hyundai ran beige and grey trim alongside each other for years and a mismatched visor is worse than a sagging one.

Often, yes. A plastic sun visor retainer clip, about R30 online, hooks the visor up to the headliner and buys you time. The permanent fix is the pivot mount or the visor itself, and both unclip without dropping the full headliner — so it is a smaller job than people expect.

Unclip the small centre catch from the headliner, undo the two Torx bolts at the pivot end, and disconnect the wiring plug if your trim has an illuminated vanity mirror. The visor drops out in five minutes once you have the right bit in the screwdriver.