Hyundai i10 Ring Gear

Not automatically. The i10 sold in South Africa as PA, then the Grand i10 BA, then AI3, and the original PA i10 and the later Grand i10 are separate platforms with separate parts catalogues — "i10" on its own is not enough to order from. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.

SA-market cars ran Epsilon 1.1 (PA), Kappa 1.25 (Grand i10), Kappa 1.2 (AI3). The code stamped on the block is what we work from — the badge on the boot is not reliable on its own.

Because the ring gear lives in two different places. On a manual it is part of the flywheel; on an automatic it sits on the flexplate behind the torque converter. Hyundai offered both on nearly every model sold here, so until we know which one you have we cannot price it. Two different parts, two different jobs.

Grinding on start, the starter spinning without engaging, and a crunch as the pinion catches a damaged tooth. The tell is that it only happens from certain parking positions — that means the wear is on one arc of the ring and the engine has stopped with those teeth facing the starter.

On older Hyundais with a heat-shrunk ring, a competent machinist can press the old one off and fit a new one. Where a dual-mass flywheel is fitted, replacement generally means the whole flywheel. Send the engine code and we will tell you which of the two you are dealing with before you commit to anything.

It depends entirely on whether you need a standalone ring or a complete flywheel. Request a free quote with your engine code and we will price both routes — a good used flywheel with a sound ring gear often comes in under a new ring on its own.

Almost always, yes. The starter is usually what chewed the ring gear in the first place — a tired Bendix or a lazy solenoid slams the pinion into the teeth instead of meshing with them. Fitting a new ring gear behind the old starter buys you the same failure again, and the labour twice.