Hyundai i20 Brake Booster

Not automatically. The i20 sold in South Africa as PB, then GB, then the current BC3, and the PB and GB are different cars underneath despite the shared badge, so a part listed simply as "i20" is not automatically the right one — the generation code decides it. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.

The VIN is the single most useful thing — a photo of the plate is fine. Failing that, the generation code and the engine code off the block. The i20 ran as PB, then GB, then the current BC3, so the generation is what narrows the search.

A rock-hard pedal is the headline symptom — you're pushing against the master cylinder alone. Expect hissing under the dash, a rough idle when braking and stopping distances that spike. On CRDi diesels a failed vacuum pump will mimic these symptoms exactly.

Costs vary by model and engine — a petrol i20 uses a simpler vacuum booster, while CRDi diesels often need the vacuum pump replaced alongside. Labour runs three to four hours because the master cylinder has to come off. Send us your VIN for a free quote.

We don't recommend it. The brakes still work mechanically, but stopping distance can double — dangerous in SA traffic. If you must move the car, do it at low speed, short distance, with extra following room. Rather get it towed or fixed first.

Usually a loss of vacuum — either a split booster diaphragm, a perished vacuum hose, a faulty one-way valve, or (on CRDi diesels) a failed vacuum pump. Start by checking the hose from the booster to the manifold — it's cheap and often the culprit.

We source new and used boosters nationally through our supplier network, matched to your exact VIN. I20, Tucson, Accent and Creta units are the common-stock items — older Getz/Accent boosters are strip-yard only. Send your chassis number and we'll quote same-day.