Hyundai i20 Sensors

Not automatically. The i20 sold in South Africa as PB, then GB, then the current BC3, and the PB and GB are different cars underneath despite the shared badge, so a part listed simply as "i20" is not automatically the right one — the generation code decides it. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.

We work backwards from the VIN: generation first, then engine family, then whether the car is pre- or post-facelift within that generation. On the i20 specifically, the PB and GB are different cars underneath despite the shared badge, so a part listed simply as "i20" is not automatically the right one — the generation code decides it.

Oxygen sensors lead the list we see, followed by camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. The CRDi diesels add sensors the petrol cars simply do not have, so a sensor list for a Gamma 1.6 tells you nothing about a 1.6 CRDi. Sensor faults account for the majority of check-engine lights that come through the door.

Most often a sensor, but never assume which one. A diagnostic scan reads the specific fault code in minutes, and the code is what should drive the purchase. Replacing a sensor on a hunch is how people end up with three new sensors and the original fault still there.

Oxygen sensors vary by model, and pre-cat and post-cat parts are different components — worth knowing before you order the cheaper one. Our supplier network stocks Hyundai sensors across a wide range. Request a free quote with your model and we will include fitting time and code clearing in the estimate.

Hyundai crankshaft sensors run from around R65 to R106 depending on fitment through our supplier network. Camshaft sensors run roughly R73 to R650. Send your VIN and we will confirm the exact part before ordering — the wrong sensor fitment is one of the most common reasons a part comes back to us.

That pattern points hard at the crankshaft position sensor. The ECU loses its timing reference, so injectors and coils stop firing; the car often restarts once it has cooled and then does the same thing again. It is one of the few faults that more or less names itself.

Short-term the ECU falls back on the crankshaft sensor, so you get reduced power and possibly limp mode. Longer term the misfires start damaging the catalytic converter, which turns a cheap part into an expensive one. Get it scanned and replaced within a week rather than living with it.