Hyundai i20 Connecting Rods

Not automatically. The i20 sold in South Africa as PB, then GB, then the current BC3, and the PB and GB are different cars underneath despite the shared badge, so a part listed simply as "i20" is not automatically the right one — the generation code decides it. Send us the generation code off your VIN plate and we will confirm it either way before anything is dispatched.

We work backwards from the VIN: generation first, then engine family, then whether the car is pre- or post-facelift within that generation. On the i20 specifically, the PB and GB are different cars underneath despite the shared badge, so a part listed simply as "i20" is not automatically the right one — the generation code decides it.

Costs are heavy — you're pulling the engine and splitting the block. Labour alone runs many hours plus machining. Racing forged rods from Maxpeeding or TEP (for Getz S16 TU5JP4) are available at SA retail. Send your VIN and mileage for a full quote.

A deep, hollow metallic knock — often described as a hammer hitting the block — worst under load and at mid-rpm. The noise speeds up with engine speed, softens at closed throttle. If you hear this on a 1.6 CRDi or 2.0 T-GDi, stop driving immediately.

No — and we cannot stress this enough. Rod knock means a big-end bearing has failed or the rod itself is cracked. Continued driving will spin the bearing, seize the engine or throw the rod through the block. Tow it, don't drive it.

Oil starvation is the number-one cause — missed oil changes, low oil level, or a failed oil pump on high-mileage 1.6 T-GDi. Hydrolock from water ingestion and over-revving a TU5JP4 also feature. Regular oil changes at the 15,000 km Hyundai interval prevent most failures.

Used rods and complete short blocks are available through our supplier network and SA strip yards. Forged upgrade rods (Maxpeeding, TEP) suit performance builds. We VIN-match on engine code — send us your chassis number.