Hyundai Brake Booster for Sale in South Africa

Disc diameter on a Hyundai tracks the derivative rather than the model — a 1.6 and a turbo version of the same car frequently run different front brakes, and N Line derivatives differ again. In practice the decision in front of you is whether you need friction material only or the discs as well, which usually comes down to how much the current set has already been skimmed.

The derivative and whether the car has been fitted with non-standard wheels, which can rule out some caliper and disc combinations. With that we can usually confirm the right part the same day, and we will tell you whether we are quoting new, aftermarket or good used stock rather than leaving you to guess.

A rock-hard pedal is the headline symptom — you're pushing against the master cylinder alone. Expect hissing under the dash, a rough idle when braking and stopping distances that spike. On CRDi diesels a failed vacuum pump will mimic these symptoms exactly.

Costs vary by model and engine — a petrol i20 uses a simpler vacuum booster, while CRDi diesels often need the vacuum pump replaced alongside. Labour runs three to four hours because the master cylinder has to come off. Send us your VIN for a free quote.

We don't recommend it. The brakes still work mechanically, but stopping distance can double — dangerous in SA traffic. If you must move the car, do it at low speed, short distance, with extra following room. Rather get it towed or fixed first.

Usually a loss of vacuum — either a split booster diaphragm, a perished vacuum hose, a faulty one-way valve, or (on CRDi diesels) a failed vacuum pump. Start by checking the hose from the booster to the manifold — it's cheap and often the culprit.

We source new and used boosters nationally through our supplier network, matched to your exact VIN. I20, Tucson, Accent and Creta units are the common-stock items — older Getz/Accent boosters are strip-yard only. Send your chassis number and we'll quote same-day.