Hyundai Crankshafts for Sale in South Africa

Hyundai used several engine families in parallel rather than in sequence, so two cars of the same model year can carry completely different internals. The engine code stamped on the block is what a parts desk works from, not the badge on the boot. In practice the decision in front of you is whether to repair the engine you have or drop in a replacement unit, because on an older Hyundai the two routes often converge in cost.

The engine code off the block or VIN plate, and whether the car is petrol or CRDi diesel. With that we can usually confirm the right part the same day, and we will tell you whether we are quoting new, aftermarket or good used stock rather than leaving you to guess.

This is worth settling first, because the two jobs are not remotely comparable. The sensor is a bolt-on part that ages and corrodes; SA retail runs roughly R65 to R550 through our supplier network. The crankshaft itself is an engine-out rebuild. People search for one and need the other more often than you would think.

The engine cranks but will not start when hot, then fires up again once it has cooled — that hot-stall-then-restart pattern is close to diagnostic on its own. Add random stalling, intermittent misfires and codes P0335 or P0336. On Getz and i20 1.4 CRDi cars, corrosion at the sensor plug is a common cause.

Not with any confidence — the ECU needs crank position to fire the injectors and ignition, so the engine can cut at any moment. That is a stranding rather than a limp home. Get it done before it picks its own time and place.

SA retail runs roughly R65 to R550 depending on model and brand, confirmed across our supplier network, and labour is usually under an hour. Send your VIN rather than the model name — sensor fitment follows the engine family, and a wrong-part return is the most common avoidable delay we see.

Very little, directly. The crank is one of the toughest components in the engine, so damage to it is nearly always downstream of something else — oil starvation, overheating, or a rod bearing that let go first. If the crank is genuinely damaged, the engine has usually already made the decision for you.